Feminine hospitality

    Hospitality is the art of creating a relaxing, enjoyable, and welcoming environment for those around you. Often we confine this solely to entertaining others. I prefer to broaden my hospitable practice to everything I do every moment of everyday.  Why can’t I create a welcoming environment wherever I am, whatever I am doing? Much of what we’d once called good manners ought to be considered as being hospitable. The key focus of practicing hospitality is considering the needs of others. 

     Some of the most hospitable acts are the simplest; holding the door for a stranger (especially one with full arms), reaching down (or up) for a senior (someone shorter), even just a small smile to the frazzled mother with the screaming infant in line ahead of you. All these simple acts create a welcoming environment around you. 

     Developing your hospitality provides you with a unique ability that builds and maintains your community & shares God’s kindness.

     We aren’t meant to be sole creatures. I think this is made most evident for those who attempt starting a self-sufficient homestead. If you accept the help of your community you’re more likely to succeed at a thriving (albeit less self-sufficient) homestead. If you refuse the help of your community you’re most likely to run yourself into the ground and give up in six years. 

     It does take a community to survive in this fallen world but there is a lot of flexibility in what that community looks like. Returning to the homesteading example; you might raise your own meat birds but rely on an outside feed source. You could choose to support a local small grain mill directly, the local co-op,  or the closest big box feed store.  You get to build your community as you see fit, but hospitality is how you treat that community. No one enjoys being in a community that takes advantage of them and leaves them high and dry.  

     Be cautious, though, that your ‘why’ for being hospitable doesn’t swing too far to either extreme of only helping others so they’ll help you & never letting others help you. 

     As Christians, sharing God’s kindness ought to concern us to the core of our being.  In the most extreme, you have the chance to be the only kind thing in someone’s life.  Our world is fallen andso is self-centered, unkind, fast-paced, stressful, angry, rude, frustrating, vile, evil and tiresome (to say in the least). You will find that being a light is far greater a reward than being first at the stop light, having the newest purse (or phone), or eating till you’re fulfilled. Being saved is being called to share God’s kindness. 

     As women we are specifically called to be caregivers, as evident in our inherited ability to empathize and connect on an emotional level with others.  

     Etiquette is a set of rules, or better referred to as expectations, of how to act during, and react to, situations in your community.  This set of expectations can vary by culture, age, and friend group. 

    The purpose of etiquette is wildly misunderstood today and I believe many are growing overburdened with anxiety due to the majority of our society dropping or outright rejecting etiquette altogether. Etiquette isn’t intended to control who you are but to prevent confusion, embarrassment, & disquietude in your community. 

     Etiquette informs us (as a member of a community) of what to expect in the majority of everyday situations as well as uncomfortable, and often, awkward mishaps. 

     Have you ever avoided an event, declined an invitation, or driven yourself sick with worry because you didn’t know what to expect? Have you ever been in an awkward situation and not know what to say or do to disfuse the atmosphere?  This a small sample of anxieties etiquette can alleviate. 

     Becoming accustomed to the etiquette expectations aids in your ability to always be hospitable. 

     Naturally we’re all on a journey. Some may be by veterans in making others feel comfortable (physically & emotionally) others may have never considered how their own behavior affects those in their community.  Part of a healthily developed skill of hospitality is being understanding, especially of those who seem more lacking in their hospitality.  If you consider yourself to be a veteran in the skill, take care to lead by example.  In a world where it is more common than not to react quickly, rudely, and hausty we need more women providing patience, understanding, & cool-headedness. 

     If you find yourself more related to the latter group of having never considered being hospitable at large; find a good group of role models. With social media it is easier now than ever before you find women in similar communities as your own to seek guidance from. Of course it wouldn’t hurt to pick up (and read) a good ole book on etiquette. Build up your knowledge on the thing and then begin implementing it in your everyday life. There is no situation too small, nor too large that you can’t prepare for or find a way to make others comfortable in your presence.

     I know I just said hospitality shouldn’t be limited to entertaining but that doesn’t mean it isn’t a good (and simple) place to start. There are a few thoughts that you need to put to bed before you consider house guest and they might seem contradictory at first. Stick with me and you’ll be on your way to creating a welcoming environment without driving yourself mad. 

     Your guest aren’t going to inspect your home & you don’t need to tidy up for guests.


One sure fire way to ship yourself off to a Betty is to believe you must perform a deep spring cleaning before you can have house guests. Especially in this day when it isn’t common for white gloves to reveal every speck of dust you missed. Take a deep breath. The other other side of this faux pas is believing you shouldn’t be expected to clean or tidy up at all for guests. There is a balance to be struck and a habit to develop.

   If you routinely clean and tidy up your house will most likely be guest ready with just a few simple checks. If you don’t routinely clean you might consider this your call-to-arms to start. Dusting once or twice a week before you vacuum will leave your home feeling much cleaner and prepared for guest. Does this mean if you forgot to dust this week you have to cancel your book club? Probably not, if you’ve routinely kept up on it prior. I would suggest keeping a tidy place to sit with drop in guests & keeping the most convenient restroom cleaned & stocked are good habits to get in that will help you feel less stressed and able to focus on your guest. 

I have to prepare a 10 course gourmet meal & I don’t need to provide a refreshment it’s 2pm


Breaking bread (the sharing of meals) together as Christians is a huge part of our community. It really brings us together.  So much so that we often put higher expectations to deliver on ourselves than any of our guests ever expect. At the same time it is important to offer a small snack at times to make your guest feel welcomed in your community. Try preparing a week’s worth of snacks for your family, if one gets put out for a guest you can always make up another snack later to replace it.  Consider when finger food is appropriate (drop in & close relations) & when a forks (scheduled & more formal guests) should be offered. Either way always provide a napkin. 

     For morning guests I prefer to have an oatmeal cake prepared. These keep fairly well in a cake stand and offer you flexibility with slice sizing, however, muffins are also a great option. Both can be served hot or room temperature and pair well with warm or cool beverages. Consider the outside temperature and the season in making your choices. An afternoon guest might enjoy a light casserole, a cool salad or maybe even tortilla chips and pico de gallo. After dinner guests should expect to be served a dessert or light snack and not a full meal. 

    As a side note I believe our society has lost the habit of dropping in on our friends and neighbors. Perhaps this too is due to the lack of knowing what to expect and being prepared for it. I make it a point to invite my neighbors, friends, and family to drop in whenever is convenient for them. 

My children  must be silent & I shouldn’t correct my children around my guests. 


Children are always a gift from God but it is our responsibility as mothers to teach them how to behave at all times. Young children need immediate direction whereas other children can be corrected after your guest has left. 

     You should inform formal guests if your children will be present. This doesn’t need to be awkwardly announcing “my children will be there” but a simple “I’m sure the children would love to meet you” will do. Your close relations should expect your children.

     I believe it is polite to introduce your children to all guest, allow them to sit with you as applicable, and to send them out (either to another room to play or out of doors) when needed. I think it is a recipe for disaster to expect your (youg) children to remain quiet and behave indefinitely but that it is good to give them some practice while they are under the ‘influence’ of having a guest. As children get older they can sit and behave for longer periods of time and you can encourage this by including then in the conversation when possible. Naturally you must consider the appropriateness and sensitivity of the conversation. Children naturally repeat what they hear, they don’t do this to be malicious, it’s how they learn. 

I must be somber always & I can joke with everyone anytime


Perhaps the greatest difficulty is faced wheb learning to read your company.  Close friends and relaxed relations will come to enjoy your refined sense of humor over time. Brief acquaintances may not have the time in your relationship to appreciate your jokes.  Vulgarity should be withheld (especially in the presence of children) as best as possible.  A man may respect the presence of a woman by refraining from vulgarity likewise. That is to say it is no sign of disrespect for a man to practice refraining his rowdy behaviors when among women.  

     As you may suspect, becoming too somber with your company is just as discomforting for them.  You will find striking the balance between these (and other) extremes to come more naturally with practice. You have to commit to practice. Start small, have your sister got tea, your mother for a chat.  Once you’ve gotten the swing of entertaining, look to how you can apply the same principles in all aspects of your life.  Hospitality is a service we can pay to each other, one that is just as rewarding to give as it is to receive.  

Simple solar oven for $30

Surprise, there are several reasons someone might wish to cook in a solar oven. Solar ovens are definitely appealing because of their off-gridness, allowing one to cook without electricity but also without fire, but the most appealing feature to me is not heating my house in summer.

We have air conditioning, we keep the house around 78°f during summer. It’s cool enough after coming in from post 80, 90, and especially 100 degrees it feels refreshing. Now my husband spends his hard earned income on providing that luxury for us, it’s my job to be frugal with it and frugal I am. The hotter your home is the more the ac needs to work to cool it, the more you pay in electricity for that cool air.

I downright refuse to use the dry during summer, especially during the heat of the day. I believe running the dryer and the air conditioner at the same time is about as insane and wasteful as anyone can get. You are literally paying to cool your house while actively paying to head your clothing. It’s an absolute oxymoron. And the close runner up is heating your house by heating your oven.

The purpose for my solar oven is to avoid heating my house when the ac is running, andso I can use a simple get up to utilize the hot summer son. I believe (and will have to update y’all) that this solar oven will require amending for winter use.

  • Cooler large enough to fit your crockpot insert
  • Your crockpot insert and lid
  • Solar blanket (a very large cooler might require 2)
  • Duct tape
  • Plastics wrap (or a piece of glass but just larger than your cooler opening)
  • Ceramic tile

Fit the solar blanket to the inside of the cooler, covering all of the interior surface. Cut and tape in place. Repeat for the lid. Place the tile in the bottom of the cooler.

For our northeast Tennessee location this solar oven works like a slow cooker on low. I regularly achieve a temperature above 150°f in the crockpot insert. Your results will likely vary andso it is important that you watch the temperature inside your oven & cook to the appropriate internal temperature.

Prepare your recipe in your crockpot then place your crockpot on the tile in your solar cooler oven. Cover the opening with plastic wrap or a piece of glass. Place cooler in direct sunlight. I’m fortunate to have a placement that remains in full sun all day. If this isn’t the case for you, simple move the cooler regularly to keep it in direct sun. Place the lid of the cooler on the open section so that it reflects light into the crock pot.

Meatloaf

  • 2# ground beef
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 handfuls powdered tomato skins (or bread crumbs)
  • 1pint tomato paste (my recipe for roasted tomato paste here)
  • Salt
  • Pepper
  • Campdog (optional but delicious)

Add everything less the tomato paste into a large mixing bowl. Mix till well combine. Pour 1/3 of tomato paste into crockpot and spread. Shape meat mixture into a log and place in crockpot over paste. Add remaining tomato pates over meatloaf. Cover crockpot with lid and placed in solar over. Cook until internal temperature of 165°f is met. This took 3.5hrs on a 90+°f day in direct sunlight.

Usually a solar kettle, I boil water to mix up instant potatoes. We prefer the potato pearls from the Mormon store.

Thankfully we’re getting some much needed rain but once that clears up, I’ll try cooking rice in the solar oven as well.

How to keep sane while processing large crops

Facing the giant stack of a single crop on your counter can strike an overwhelming fear in the best of us. Whether you grew the crop or purchased it the questions you ask yourself are the same: What on Earth was I thinking and How am I going to preserve all of this?

The most obvious option is to ask for help and if you have kids, who will benefit from this labor, you’re set. Of course you can always ask friends and extended family -and this is a great & wonderful option- but you’re likely to feel that you should divide the fruits labor. So you’re either left with less than you desired or doing more overall to accommodate. Both of these are fine options, I only wish to be honest about the reality.

Every couple of years my mother and I process enough tomatoes to provide both our homes with sauce, paste & soup for two years. Last time my mother in law joined us which means we added to our workload but we were able to accomplish this in two days. (Less the soup because it was my first year I charge of it and I fermented it by mistake but it is made from a byproduct of making sauce & paste so no tomatoes were wasted)

If you are purchasing your produce you may consider purchasing smaller batches throughout the season to keep things more manageable. Although if you’re planning on purchasing large quantities of several crops to put up this may not be practical.

This year I will be doing much, if not all, my preserving on my own as we’re the first to relocate.

Generally a bushel can be processed easily by one person over a couple of days. Again, there’s a lot of variables to consider: cleaning and prep being the largest.

Naturally you want to preserve your produce in a way your family will eat it. There are few things worse than prepping, processing and putting up something only to find out no one likes it. Have an idea of your main product. Since I’ve recently processed peaches, sliced peaches in syrup was my main product as my kids will eat them all day, especially when they have been chilled.

Processing peaches, like tomatoes, requires removing the skins, but peaches need to be removed from the stone. Because my kids both love my main product I opted to prepare them in quart jars as I know once a jar is opened it will be consumed in a reasonable amount of time.

My kids also enjoy a variety of jams. They really like being the one to pick out the next jam once the opened jar is polished off. Even though they enjoy almost all the jams & jellies I make they love having a selection. So my first secondary product was peach jam. Although peach jam was a new product for me this year I have processed peaches and jams countless times before, I didn’t consider this a new product.

I suggest trying your hand at new products. Make only a single batch in case you don’t like or decide it takes too much effort or time. This year I tried a zesty peach bbq sauce. It was much spicier than I anticipated, I’m sure my husband will enjoy it.

You may also consider a passive product. Usually this will be dehydrating some of your crop. For peaches this still requires rinsing and slicing. Lay the slices out on your trays and let it run for 12-24hrs. I processed two dehydrators of peaches and ended up with about ¾ of a gallon.

Lastly consider processing something fun. Maybe it’s a speciality jam to gift away at Christmas or a boozy preservation technique that leaves you with a fun ingredient to make icing, syrups, or cocktails. I made brandied peaches (and rumed) to make icing for my cakes this year. Naturally these items should be used in moderation and with discretion.

I’m sure you’ve concluded I’m an advocate for diversifying your preservation. By using a variety of preservation methods you provide yourself with more options in using your finished product, protection from entire crop failure, and keep yourself from going crazy at repeating the same process for days.

And now I’m left with the big question do I purchase more peaches?

Free garden fertilizer

When talking about fertilizers, a basic understanding will get you going pretty well. Your plants need a specific combination of nitrogen (N), potassium (K), and phosphorus (P). Each plant species has its own preference.

When I first started into fertilizer it was either overly simple or drastically complicated. I’d often get overwhelmed and just purchase something with the picture of what I wanted to put it on, on it. This worked alright. Over time the lango became familiar and I found fertilizers I felt comfortable adding to my garden.

Honestly, during the growing season, if I wouldn’t eat something as it is I usually won’t put it on the garden. So I began looking for limited ingredient fertilizer, I wanted to know and understand what each ingredient was and did as well as where it came from.

It didn’t take long to realize I’d be making my own fertilizer. Naturally, I opted for recipes that aided my journey to a waste free kitchen (where even the compost is seen as a last resort) and sought for single ingredient recipes I could stock up on.

Nitrogen was the easiest to hurdle (though the others weren’t particularly more difficult either). A few years back I learned about nitrogen fixers though I didn’t understand the specifics of how they worked I learned tomatoes should follow peas the next year. That is to say that tomatoes should be planted in a bed that grew peas the season before. However because I didn’t understand how the system worked, I was pulling my dead peas and adding them to the compost bucket.

Peas and other similar nitrogen fixers have roots that react to a bacteria in the soil and develop little nodes of nitrogen in the root system. When the plant does or is cut back, the roots release this nitrogen into the soil. Two years ago I cut my peas and laid them on the bed to decompose over winter. The following season I had my best tomatoes. The foreplanning required is little when faced with the yields of success.

Potassium aids in root development & can repel some unwanted quests from our gardens. Boiling banana peels in water is a simple and effective way to extract the benefits of banana for your garden. If you have children or been around small kids you probably know they have love of bananas. Ours are teenagers now and still eat bananas everyday.

Phosphorus increases your plants’ production. When I learned a basic fertilizer to add phosphorus to your garden was bone meal I wondered if it were even possible to make bone meal at home. Turns out I was already doing half the process on a regular basis. I already was in the habit of bone collecting after meals (family would freeze their bones and drop them by for me) and making bone broth. Bone broth is made by boiling bones in water for several hours (or up to 2 days) but then you just throw your bones out (or in the compost). Bonemeal requires that you grind the bones into a powder. This is possible after the bones have been boiled for several hours and then dehydrated.

Now that I’ve provided you with simple methods of creating fertilizer for garden there are a few key things you will need to consider before applying these methods. Where are your ingredients coming from, were they treated with chemicals at any point, and what strength and combination your plants require. For the latter I suggest starting slow and running your own field experiments. After all gardening is gaining experience through experimenting.

Catching a ginger bug

You don’t have to spend much time around me learn I love me some coke-a-cola although I know how awful it is for the body. Enter the need for a healthy yet delicious replacement. That replacement came in the form of a ginger bug.

What is a ginger bug? It is a ferment similar (yet very different) to your sourdough starter. The basic process is same, you catch and grow wild yeast by feeding it. A ginger bug does not grow in volume.

With a ginger bug you create carbonation by feeding the yeast on ginger root sugar. This sugar is necessary and is mostly consumed by the yeast.

Wild yeast is on the peel of the ginger andso I do not peel my ginger. You need to take this into consideration when purchasing or growing your ginger.

Day 1: add 3T each of sugar & freshly chopped (or grated) ginger to 2C filtered water. Cover loosely with a cloth and store out of direct sunlight.

Day 2-7: feed your bug 2T each sugar & fresh chopped ginger and stir well.

You may notice bubbles forming around the floating pieces of ginger in a couple days and by day 7 you should notice a good increase to the bubbling activity. Your bug is now ready to use.

Generally your soda recipes will call for 4-6C of juice or tea to 1/4-1/2C starter. You will mix these with a few tbsp of sugar (again to feed the yeast and create carbonation) and allow to ferment for 12-48hrs.

Pineapple ginger soda

  • 1/4C ginger bug
  • 48oz pineapple juice
  • 3T sugar

I juiced a fresh pineapple but needed to add canned juice to reach the 48oz. It is best to use swing back jars to ferment your soda recipes but mason jars can be used so long as that band is screwed much less than finger tight.

On the journey to no till

We knew the soil was poor when we purchased. We knew it was thick, compacted clay. And the month before we moved I spent night after night developing a plan to create a garden.

The selected garden space had been left to weeds for some time and let to be. So I opted to use a silage tarp to mulch the weeds. One morning I found that the tarp had been completely blown off to reveal the weeds were entirely reduced to dirt. I couldn’t believe my eyes!

And that was the end of the easy work. Initially I wanted to bring in compost and top soil but knew this would be impractical on a large scale. Andso, although I understand the damage tilling causes, we had the clay tilled, and we racked up our patch into rows.

We started a compost pile and were able to get some composting cow manure/hay mix to add to it. We’ll add this to the row the tomatoes were in this year to help restore nutrients.

But we have a huge task ahead of us, we can’t create compost on a large enough scale on our own yet to amend the soil. Facing this mountain we ordered cover crops to plant at the end of the season. These will be cut and dropped in the beds to protect the beds over winter and left to break down.

Then the weeds came. It’s not like I didn’t know this was coming, I’ve spent long enough attempting to keep nice pretty bare brown patches in my gardens to know better. Our solution was to heavily sow intercrops. When given the choice between crowding my crops with weeds or with edibles that can benefit the soil, I chose the latter. The goal is to cover as much of the soil as possible in plants that have different habits. In most beds this meant adding a root crop and a nitrogen fixer.

I have made it a point to weed before they go to seed and use the pulled weeds as mulch/cover to prevent the growth of new seeds.

The soil won’t be perfect next year but we are hoping for improvement.

For the corn patch we covered the weeds with the silage tarp for one month and then mowed the dead weeds to create a mulch cover. We found that the clay was extremely compacted and very difficult to dig in. We ended up purchasing a drill but meant for digging in dirt.

We will now have a side by side comparison of the two patches. I suspect there will be less weeds in the corn patch but perhaps some stunting due to the roots not being able to spread out in the rock hard clay. In the fall we will plant beets here to help loosen the dirt.

The best & easiest biscuit recipe

The worst part about canned biscuits is the convenience. How many times has my husband requested biscuits & gravy when waiting for biscuits from scratch would result in cries of starvation from my children. To add salt to the wound, my husband admitted he didn’t care for me biscuits.

Bruised, I resolved to never check into the ingredients in canned biscuits. I’d imagine I’d be appalled. So I would just grab a couple every week and toss them (gently) into the cart and not question it.

Then came the week I reached for the canned biscuits only to find the entire section empty. Thinking it was a random fluke I didn’t worry. I tried a few other groceries and returned empty handed.

The immediate panicked google search resulted in YouTube videos calling for only two ingredients! And they were quick and required no cooling. They also claimed you couldn’t overwork the dough. I was sold.

Purchasing the two ingredients the next day I attempted this magical recipe, and they were amazing! I couldn’t believe how simple the solution was.

The biscuits rose beautifully and we’re soft and fluffy in the middle.

The powerful ingredients are 2 parts self-raising flour to 1 part heavy whipping cream. Mix, pat out, cut, transfer to preheated cast iron, and bake at 425°f for 14-18mins. Thicker biscuits will rise higher.

So impressed was I that I ended up having a reaction to the amount of baking powder in the self-raising flour, but was making biscuits every day, maybe twice a few days. The white lilly brand seems to be the best to prevent my reaction. Though it is a hereditary allergy for women in my family, this was my first time reacting to baking powder.

We still can’t find canned biscuits here but I doubt it’d switch back now.

Bentonite clay shampoo bar

There are many reasons shampoo bars are becoming a household staple; product control, accessibility, versatility, and self sufficiency are only a few, they just happen to be my few reasons.

If you know me, you know I love you keep things simple, andso I opted to adapt my basic Castile bar soap recipe into a shampoo bar.

There’s a lot of scary warnings about working with lye. While I think it’s important to take appropriate precautions I don’t believe it does any good to make anyone so afraid of lye they can’t imagine using it.

Yes lye will burn you when it comes into contact with your skin. I have been burned by lye and while it does sting for awhile, treating it with vinegar quickly provides complete relief. No, you shouldn’t breathe in the fumes from adding lye to water. Always add the lye to the water, switching this can create a cloud of lye to become airborne, creating a dangerous situation for your skin, eyes, & lungs. Wear gloves (& goggles if you desire) work in a well ventilated area or outdoors. Have vinegar on hand to neutralize any spills. Only use dedicated tools for soap making (don’t use any soapmaking tool for food).

Here’s the basic recipe:

  • 50 oz olive oil
  • 15 oz water
  • 6.3 oz Lye
  1. Measure ingredients
  2. Add lye to water
  3. mix outdoors or in well vented area
  4. allow to cool to room temp (roughly 30 mins)
  5. Add lye mixture to olive oil
  6. stir to thicken (if using an immersion blender use short bursts)
  7. Add any colour, essential oils and/or dried herbs
  8. Allow to gently cool (ie: under towel) for 24 hrs
  9. Cut if needed or pop out and vent for 6 weeks to cure.

I decided I wanted to infuse my olive oil with rosemary & thyme for their benefits. There is a “spirit tax” when infusing olive oil, this is due to the oil coating the herbs when you remove the herbs. You can correct this by making a few extra ounces of infused oil, or adding plain olive oil after straining, or using a lye calculator to adjust the lye & water requirements of your recipe by entering in the amount of infused olive you end up with after straining.

At step 7, divide mixture into two bowls, add 2T of bentonite clay to one bowl and mix. Pour a bit of the clay free mixture into your prepared mold, then the clay mix, and finally the remainder of the clay free. Gently create a swirl with a spatula.

The rest of the recipe remains the same.

At first switching to shampoo bars can cause a good deal of frustration. I suggest replacing 1-2 shampooing the first week with your new shampoo bar and still using your original shampoo the remainder. Gradually increase shampoo bar use or reduce use of original shampoo.

Though you can lather shampoo bars directly into your scalp & hair I find this causes a lot of breakage. Try lathering the bar in your hands and then applying it to your scalp & working it through your hair. Be sure to completely rinse the soap from your hair, failing to do so will result in “greasy” spots.

Your hair will feel different & may take some getting used to, I prefer to use a vinegar rinse after shampooing. You can start with store bought acv and dilute it roughly 1:4 acv to water. Your hair will be softer & shiner as a result.

Check out my Bentonite clay deodorant recipe here!

Bentonite clay deodorant

Not gonna lie, I can’t stand the natural deodorants on the market. The ones that work often need reapplied and sometimes leave the same greasy stains behind as homemade recipes do.

When you’re on a mission to make all of your family’s clothing the last thing you want is something you put in everyday that ruins your hard work!

Now it’s important that if you switch to natural deodorants you switch to a non- processed (or as best as possible) diet. Your natural deodorant will work a whole lot better for it.

These were my two requirements: that the thing worked well and that it didn’t ruin my homemade dresses.

I pulled out the bentonite clay thinking I’d use it in a shampoo bar but why not try it in a deodorant. And it was such a wonderful idea. This recipe works all day long and didn’t grease my dress.

  • 30g beeswax
  • 66g Shea butter
  • 5Tbsp arrow root powder
  • 1Tbsp bentonite clay

Melt the Shea butter and beeswax in a double boiler and transfer to your mix container, quickly add powders and mix till a light paste is reached. Transfer into an empty deodorant container.

This will fill 2 2oz containers. As the beeswax cools the deodorant hardens which makes it great for a tube deodorant container but you could use a small jar, using the heat from your hands to soften the deodorant to apply to your underarms.

Bentonite clay is a wonderful ingredient to rely on to remove impurities for hygiene & first aid needs. The clay that has not come into contact with metal can draw metals out of the body, once contact with metal is made the clay is deactivated.

Mix some clay with water to create a paste or poultice and apply to slivers, bug bites, & infected skin. Replay every 24hrs as needed.

Check out my post on using bentonite clay in your skin care routine here!

Cloning my vintage 1940s wrap dress.

If you’re anything like me you’re not going to spend hundreds of dollars on an 80 year old, second hand dress. I’m sorry, I just can’t. The vintage dresses in my price range are admittedly on their last leg.

I love them, they’re beautiful, but they are dying. So I wear them a few times to get an idea for their fit & function. What I love and what I can’t stand about the dress. And then I completely deconstruct the dress. I didn’t realize how much sun damage was in the dress until I laid the pieces out on a white background.

Actually taking the dress apart, breaking the stitches, was a pretty emotional process. Having Mendes the seams myself, i knew others had done so also. It felt almost as if I were eating their memory. That’s when I decided I needed to reconstruct the dress.

Emotions aside, the process is pretty simple. Gently and slowly break a few stitches along a seam and then remove the threads.

Ironing the pieces is probably a good idea from a construction point of view but opted not to in order to best preserve the original fabric. You’re going to need to research the material and make that choice for yourself.

This is another project that was affected by my iphone corrupting, I have no photos of the original dress from before I deconstructed it.

I taped several pieces of printer paper together on the backside, being sure to overlap each side by roughly 1/4″. Having used independent patterns prior to this made this step a none thing.

You may want to take notes. I didn’t and though I was able to figure out how everything went back together I lost a few hours over it.

At first I traced the pieces by pressing the fabric down in a small section and tracing around it. It was when I started tracing the cuff of the sleeves that I had the thought these pieces have been pulled into place for at least 80 years I bet that’s gonna warp them’. So I got a little smarter about which pieces probably were squared up. Once I was finished tracing the pieces I taped the top side of the papers together. And cut them out.

I apologize for the lighting of this picture, if you zoom in you can see the pattern lines.

Lay out your fabric (washed, dried & ironed) and cut out your pattern as normal. Basic sewing knowledge will certainly help you figure out how to construct your garment. Once my pieces were cut out I stared at them thinking ‘now what?’. Then I heard my mother from 2,500 miles away “always start with the darts”.

Generally you will construct the bodice first and up til the point you need to attach the skirt, then you construct the skirt and attach them. Hemming and any hand stitching are the final step.

As for sleeves: in this specific piece the sleeves are part of the bodice from the beginning, a sweet friend turned me on to the term doleman sleeves. I was taught that separate sleeves are attached after the bodice sides are sewn but lately I have come across more than a few patterns where the sleeve is attached before the bodice sides are sewn together so that the sides and sleeve underarm are sewn in one seem.

Naturally, I took exactly zero photos of sewing the two dresses I’ve made from this pattern. Once I start sewing I prefer to just keep going through it, no distractions.

The original dress was slightly too tight when I took a seat so I added a total of an inch on each side (1/2″ on each side of the back piece and 1/2″ on the side of both front pieces). I also choose to close the outside of the wrap with a tie. The original dress had a button that I had reattached more than once. I attached one tie to the inside of the top wrap and the other tie at the side seam of the inside of the top wrap for the red dress and I like this closing a lot more. For the green dress I attached the inside tie tie at the dart where the bottom had been on the original dress. This caused the dress top to be less fitting.

I learned how to create this nifty pocket cuff by simply playing around with the pieces until it worked the way the original dress had. Thankfully I only deconstructed one pocket and left the other intact to study.

Cut a rectangle the desired length plus seam allowance for top & bottom, and twice as wide as you desire with seam allowance. Fold right sides together along the length so that your cuff is now the desired width. Sew along the bottom raw edge (the top is in the waist of this skirt but if yours isn’t, also sew along the top raw edge). Turn rightside out. When sewing pocket to side of front skirt panel layer as follows: skirt front panel right side up, pocket cuff raw edge matching skirt panel raw edge, pocket front right side down and raw edge matching skirt panel. Complete pocket as normal. For a detailed description on how to make in-seam pockets follow the link at the end of this post.

I chose to keep the turn up sleep liners as this hides the cuff/sleeve seem very nicely. I also took the time to whip stitch them in place. I’m glad I did because it gave me the practice (& the patience) to whip stitch the side and bottom hems of the skirt on the second dress which looks much better.

In both dresses I omitted the lapel and collar cuffs. Though these were adorable on the original dress they gave it a sort of housekeeping uniform look that I didn’t want to keep. I did still trace the pieces so I could always change my mind for a third dress.

Here’s the hack I learned to making a hidden hem. Sew a basting stitch 1/4″ in from the raw edge. Turn the raw edge in using the basting stitch as a guide. Press and pin turn the hem in on itself again, pressing and moving the pins. I recommend being heavy with the pins. As the fabric cools it will want to unfold. Whip stitch the hem. I removed the basting stitch. The finished product is so much more appealing and top stitching.

Before you get started making a new dress you will want to consider the fabric you use. The first dress I made was a tight woven printed cotton and though it made a sharp looking dress I do prefer the traditional loose homespun woven which is similar to the material of the original dress.

I am currently considering my options for reconstructing the original dress to give it another life. Before the procedure of creating a lining by constructing a second garment and then sewing right sides together and turning it out, it was done by sewing wrong sides together and treating the lined pieces as one piece of fabric. As of yet, I think this is the best bet.

In this post I walk you through sewing a 1940’s two piece play suit and how to draft your own pattern for it.